LA ALBUFERABetween the sea and the rice paddies, closed in by the geological frontiers of the Turia and Júcar river mouths, the Albufera Nature Park is a paradise for migratory birds and a quiet parkland for the nearby city and surrounding towns. Located 11km south of the city of Valencia, the Albufera lagoon is separated from the Mediterranean by a series of sand dunes and pine forests. This freshwater lagoon was formed aeons ago by river sedimentation which eventually formed a barrier at sea and trapped a huge body of water inland. Traditional activities are still respected within the park, such as rice growing and controlled hunting and fishing, which now harmonize with the natural surroundings.
BOAT RIDESFrom the lookout point located next to the first lock on the El Saler road, or in the town of El Palmar, boat rides are offered on the Albufera guided by old-time fishermen who know the area well.
THE LAGOONThe lake is approximately six kilometres in diameter, with the centre being called the lluent - meaning that which shines the most. Moorish poets coined the name of the Albufera, calling it the sun's mirror. An infinity of canals enter the lagoon from all sides, creating an endless patchwork design, which is especially pretty when surrounding ricelands are covered in water. Only a tenth of the 30,000 hectares mentioned by chroniclers from Roman times like Aviennus and Strabo are still navigable. Farmers conquered the missing areas little by little to increase their croplands. Today, preservation measures are in force, guaranteeing the equilibrium of this unique nature area.
The island of Palmar, sitting in the middle of the Albufera, can be accessed by crossing over three canals, along a narrow road running through typical market gardens and oleander plants. The origins of this town are closely linked to fishing activities. As far back as the year 1250 King James the Conqueror granted the first settlers the privilege of fishing in the lake for food and trade. The Community of Fishermen of El Palmar democratically regulates present-day fishing activities on the lagoon, applying laws which have stood the test of time. To obtain a redolí, or a permanent fishing spot on the lake, one must have been born in Palmar, be the son of a fisherman, be legally married and above the age of 22. On the second Sunday in July every year, redolins are raffled out to candidates. When fishing for eels - the main ingredient in the local dish all i pebre - a mornell is used, which is a funnel-shaped net that fishermen place in their redolins during the fishing season.
FIESTASFallas, from March 13th to 19th Feast of Cristo de la Salud, first week in August During the first days of August, El Palmar celebrates the procession in honour of Christ of Good Health. At dusk, over one hundred rowboats - one of which carries the image of Christ - leave the landing stage to cross to the centre of the lagoon. When they arrive, they chant and pray, and when the last rays of the sun disappear over the waters of the Albufera, they turn their prows to shore and return to town for a fiesta.
From the innermost point heading seaward, the El Saler meadowland is comprised of a fixed dune area, the marshy depressions, then the mobile dunes and finally the sandy beach. This area is ten kilometres long and one kilometre wide. Vegetation is abundant, Mediterranean pine trees grow thick, accompanied by flora such as sea daffodils, beach grass, bindweed, Aleppo pines, myrtles, sarsaparilla and other shrubbery.
THE FAUNABevies of birds flocked in the sky, and schools of fish swam thick in the water. This is how Gaspar Aguilar, chronicler to Felipe II (16th C) described the Albufera. It has changed considerably since those days, but it is still a major attraction for wildlife lovers. Autochthonous fish like the samaruc and fartet, baby shrimp, crayfish and mollusks such as the dog cockle thrive here.The Albufera has now been declared a marshland of international importance following the Ramsar treaty, and is a major European nesting site for birds. During the winter, ducks and similar species are the most abundant, with species including the red-crested pochard, gadwall, shoveler and the teal. Shorebirds also gather here at this time of year, such as the lapwing or the snipe. Wintering bitterns and grey herons can be seen, as well as seabirds such as the cormorant or the great black-backed gull. During the nesting season, the Albufera becomes a haven for birds such as the ringed plover, the little tern, the black-winged stilt, the grey heron, collared pratincoles and night herons.
VISIT THE MONUMENTSSurrounded by rice paddies, this town is well-to-do, comfortable and inviting. Visitors are made to feel at home, at any time of the year. The main religious monument is the royal church of Nuestra Señora de Sales, built in the 17th century. It preserves a much admired canvas showing Our Lady of the Sacred Milk, a work attributed to Juan de Juanes. The cupola is covered with bright blue Manises-ware ceramic tiles, presenting a picture-postcard white-and-blue dome that many Valencian towns offer the visitor. The church of San Pedro (18th C), the Casa del Quatre Cantons and the Ayuntamiento, or town hall building, both from the 17th century, are well worth a visit, as are the important examples of turn-of-the-century Modernist architecture, such as the home of the writer Joan Fuster, demonstrating the comfortable economic situation attained by this rice-producing town.
MILES AND MILES OF SANDSueca's coastline includes infinite sandy beaches such as those at Perelló, La Llastra, Les Palmeretes, Motilla, Mareny de Barraquetes, Vega del Mar and Mareny de Vilxes, which are all leisure areas where you can enjoy fun and sun in an ambience which is especially lively during the summer months.
RICE GROWINGRice is grown in the marshlands here, where water is only inches deep. In springtime the rice paddies are dried out, flattened and planted before being filled again. In mid-May the fields are fertilized to accelerate growth. In July and August the whole area is coloured brown by a sea of ripe heads of rice, permeataing the atmosphere, and in mid-September the rice is harvested. Water is drained off through the locks on November 1st. After this comes the so-called "perellonà", when all the locks are opened and the paddies are flooded until the month of January. Visitors wishing to gain an overview of this immense lowland area containing rice paddies, marshlands and the inland lagoon should travel to the Muntayeta dels Sants, just before Sueca. This is a chapel located on the entire plain's only hill, commanding a panoramic view. Another choice is to ascend the Zorras in Cullera to look out from the Cabeçol over the entire district.
FIESTASFallas, from March 13th to 19thFestivity of St Rocco, AugustRice Fiesta, first fortnight in SeptemberThe Rice Fiesta, held during the first fortnight in September, is the town's favourite feast. It is listed as a festivity of international tourist interest and offers all participants dazzling celebrations such as the rice parade, a paella competition, marching bands, fireworks and "cordaes", or strings of firecrackers lit in the streets.
OVER ONE HUNDRED RICE DISHESRice is the main cash crop in the immediate area of the Albufera. This is why the basic ingredient for culinary creations along the entire coast is rice, beginning with the ubiquitous Valencian paella and continuing through to all possible combinations of rice with fish, poultry and vegetables from the huerta. Also typical of the Albufera area are all i pebre (eels in sweet pepper sauce), espardenyà (cod and pepper in oil), llisa torrà (grilled grey mullet) and llobarro a la sal (salt-baked sea bass).
LA ALBUFERAPARK INFORMATION:Centre for the Protection and Study of the EnvironmentMata del Fang. Avinguda dels Pinars, 106.Tfno. 96 161 08 47Fax 96 161 03 00Nature Park Information and Learning CentreCtra. del Palmar, s/n46012 El PalmarTfno. and fax 96 162 73 45Cultural Association Parc Natural de l'AlbuferaAvda. Dr. Waksman, 25 pta. 2 o 46006 ValenciaTfno. and fax 96 373 72 41 639 57 94 96
SUECAAlong the El Saler road V-500, N-332 and the A-7 motorway. Valencia airport at 25 km. Rail connections.
EL PALMARAlong the El Saler road V-500. Valencia airport at 16 km. Bus connections.
EL SALERAlong the El Saler road V-500. Valencia airport at 16 km. Bus connections.